Crossing Into Montenegro: Scenic Drive

After crossing the border into Montenegro, our adventure shifted from Roman ruins to a totally different kind of beauty — one shaped by dramatic mountains, seaside towns, and winding roads that feel straight out of a storybook.

Montenegro is a small country packed with variety: from medieval old towns perched on fjord‑like bays to tranquil lakes and sleepy villages tucked into the mountainsides.

Fun fact: Some call the Bay of Kotor the southern-most ‘fjord’ in Europe, but this is incorrect as these mountains were not carved by glaciers.

Instead, Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor is a ‘ria‘, a submerged river canyon, with a stunning backdrop of steep black cliffs that plummet to a narrow inlet of the Adriatic Sea.

We had a quick passport stamping at the smallest mountainside border crossing between Bosnia and Montenegro and within 90 minutes the roads were winding and offered views like these:

A serene landscape featuring a calm lake surrounded by mountains under a cloudy sky. — Photo taken from the car window

Nearby cities (easy by car or bus, 1–4 hours)

Are there options for day trips to/from here? YES

Perast, Montenegro – 12 km (7.5 miles), ~20 min
Budva, Montenegro – 23 km (14 miles), ~30 min
Herceg Novi, Montenegro – 44 km (27 miles), ~1 hour
Dubrovnik, Croatia – 95 km (59 miles), ~2 hours
Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina – 160 km (99 miles), ~3.5 hours

A misty landscape featuring a small island with trees and historical buildings on the left, and a mountainous backdrop on the right under a cloudy sky. — Views of Our Lady On The Rocks

Arrival Views

First Glimpses

Driving along the scenic route and the iconic ‘Our Lady of the Rocks’ Church came into view, stunning even from the road — ** more on our closer visit via boat later (or skip ahead to page 2!).

After a long day trip through Bosnia, we finally rolled into our rental just as the sun was setting. Lucky for us, the host had left some homemade wine on the balcony so we couldn’t resist enjoying a glass while taking in the view. 🍷

A serene view of a lake surrounded by mountains, with soft clouds and a gray sky during twilight. The foreground shows rooftops of houses, and the calm water reflects the landscape. — Kotor apartment balcony views 😍

Sitting there, sipping and watching the lights begin to twinkle across the old town, it felt like the perfect introduction to our two nights and three days in this magical corner of Montenegro.

A cruise ship illuminated at night, docked in a serene bay surrounded by mountains and a small village with rooftops under a cloudy sky. — *Seeing a cruise ship in the bay really puts the towering black mountains into perspectiv*

Bay of Kotor: 2 Day Itinerary

Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is famous for its winding cobblestone streets, historic architecture, and impressive city walls.

Entering through the Sea Gate, we immediately felt transported back in time.

A man standing near an old stone fortress by a body of water, with mountainous terrain and a cloudy sky in the background.

Top Highlights in Kotor Old Town

St. Tryphon Cathedral: 12th-century Romanesque cathedral with stunning frescoes
St. Luke’s Church (Crkva Svetog Luke): 12th-century Romanesque and Byzantine church; reflecting both Catholic and Orthodox heritage
St. Nicolas Church: Serbian Orthodox Church with striking domes and icons
St. Claire’s Church: 18th-century church, attached to the Franciscan Monastery
Kotor City Walls: Stretching 4.5 km up the surrounding hills, offering panoramic views of the Old Town and Bay of Kotor
Maritime Museum of Montenegro: Showcasing Kotor’s rich seafaring history
Old Town Squares: From Trg od Oružja to Trg Sv. Tripuna, every square is filled with cafés, artisan shops, and historic charm

Travel Tip: Start your day early in Kotor to beat the cruise ship crowds, and don’t miss hiking the city walls for a breathtaking view of the bay below. If mornings aren’t your style, this hike can also be a stunning way to end the day as the sun sets over the town.

Things to see:

To start the morning, we set out to explore the old town including the high number of well-maintained Orthodox and Catholic churches.

Historic stone church with twin bell towers, surrounded by mountains under a cloudy sky. — St. Tryphon Cathedral

Cathedral of Saint Tryphon

Built in 1166, the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon is one of very few Roman Catholic Churches in Montenegro and is quite the sight to see with the vertical black mountains in the background.

The overwhelming majority of Montenegrins are Eastern Orthodox Christians, yet St. Tryphon Catholic Cathedral remains a strong symbol in the city center.

The exterior of a historic stone church with a bell tower, set against a backdrop of mountains and cloudy skies. — Church of St. Luke

St. Luke

Nearby on the square Piazza Greca in Kotor, is the church of Sveti Luka (St. Luke) which has traits of both Roman and Byzantine architecture.

Originally constructed as a Catholic church in 1195, the church today is significant because of the fact that it has two altars, a Catholic and a Serbian Orthodox one, with each faith taking turns to hold services here.

St Luke’s Church speaks volumes about the history of Croat-Serb relations in Kotor and is a testimony about the harmonious co-existence of Catholic and Orthodox people.

A person stands in a church interior with a grand wooden altar featuring religious icons and a large decorated cross. Candles are lit on the altar, and the stone architecture is visible in the background.

Wooden iconostasis adorned with religious icons and a cross, set in a church interior.

The Catholic Church has since gifted it to the Orthodox Church as a gesture of coexistence. ❤️ ☮️

Today, it’s fully Orthodox, but fragments of 12th-century frescoes remain visible, offering a window into the city’s medieval artistic heritage.

Ancient mural depicting three figures in robes, possibly saints or religious figures, with halos above their heads, partially faded and eroded.

St. Nicolas

Located on the northern part of the old town, St. Nicolas is one of the most beautiful and important Serbian Orthodox Church in Kotor.

Interior view of a church with an ornate altar featuring religious icons, gold accents, and a chandelier, showcasing a spiritual ambiance. — St. Nicolas interior

Facade of a stone church with two towers and a cross on top, featuring a flag and religious iconography. — St. Nicolas interior

Its twin bell towers with black domes, topped with golden crosses gifted from Russia, make it instantly recognizable. A stunning mosaic adorns the facade above the entrance, with the Serbian flag displayed just above it, adding a vibrant touch to the church’s striking appearance

Built in 1909, St. Nicholas is relatively ‘new’ compared to Kotor’s medieval churches, but its grand architecture and vibrant details make it a must-see stop for anyone exploring the Old Town.

St. Claire’s Church

One of Kotor’s quieter treasures, and often overlooked by visitors wandering the Old Town. St. Claire’s Church dates back to the 18th century, and is tucked next to the Franciscan Monastery, which adds to its historic and spiritual charm.

The church’s modest yet elegant architecture and peaceful interior provide a welcome contrast to the busier streets of Kotor, making it a perfect spot for reflection or a quiet pause while exploring.

Interior view of a church featuring a detailed wooden ceiling, religious artwork, and ornate altar, with statues and decorative elements.

Part of the Itinerary: Getting lost in Kotor

For the next several hours, we walked the cobblestone alleyways and soaked up all of the architecture and history.

A vibrant shop interior filled with colorful glass lamps and decorative pottery, featuring shelves lined with intricately designed items and a staircase leading to the upper level.

A smiling woman in a blue jacket stands beside a shopping window displaying colorful ceramic figurines, while a cat sits on the ledge.

We poked our heads into every lantern shop, marveling at the intricate designs, and couldn’t resist adoring the friendly stray cats that lounged in sunny corners or darted across the streets.

Narrow alleyways wind between the stone buildings, opening unexpectedly onto hidden courtyards, tiny gardens, and quiet fountains, giving every turn a sense of timeless charm.

Historic building exterior with stone walls, green shuttered windows, and a balcony with ornate railing under a cloudy sky.

The historic stone houses of Kotor, with their signature green shutters and orange-tiled roofs, are beautifully preserved within the city walls. Many date back hundreds of years and reflect Venetian and Mediterranean influences, with thick stone facades, arched doorways, and wrought-iron balconies that make wandering the Old Town feel like stepping back in time.

We spent hours peeking into tiny shops, browsing lanterns, and Christmas ornaments, and soaking up the atmosphere—it was a perfect day wandering Kotor’s Old Town!

Fun Fact: Interestingly, cats are everywhere in Montenegro! They lounge on stone walls, curl up in alleyways, and even greet visitors in cafés. If you’re a cat lover, this charming Old Town will absolutely steal your heart. 🐈

Kotor’s Fortifications and St. John’s Fortress

Stairway to the Sky

Looking directly to the left from our balcony, the imposing St. John’s Fortress clings to the mountainside, while the zigzagging Ladder of Kotor stretches down toward the Old Town below (as seen in the photo below).

The wall and St. John’s Fortress is almost camouflaged with the landscape of the black mountains during the day.

Even from a distance, you can appreciate just how steep and dramatic the climb is — a winding ribbon of stone steps that has challenged visitors for centuries.

At night, the wall is completely lit up, fully revealing how magnificent of a fortification it really is.

A rocky hillside covered in greenery, featuring remnants of ancient structures, under a cloudy sky.

The old city of Kotor is entirely encircled by massive stone fortifications built during the Venetian period, a testament to centuries of architectural endurance.

These walls helped earn Kotor a place on UNESCO’s World Heritage List as part of the “Venetian Works of Defense” for their cultural and historical significance.

After a long day exploring the winding streets of the old town, Jeff decided to tackle one of Montenegro’s most iconic hikes — climbing the city walls up to St. John’s Fortress. This isn’t a casual stroll; it’s a proper ascent that rewards you with one of the most breathtaking panoramic views of the Bay of Kotor.

How to Hike to St. John’s Fortress?

There are two main ways to hike up:

Official City Walls Route: Most visitors start within the Old Town and follow the stone steps that zig‑zag up the hillside toward the fortress.
- It’s about 1,350 steps and takes roughly 45 minutes to an hour (longer if you stop for photos).
- Along the way you pass landmarks like the Church of Our Lady of Remedy — a lovely little resting point with early views over the rooftops.
Ladder of Kotor Trail: For the more adventurous (and budget‑minded), the Ladder of Kotor is a rugged, switchback path outside the Old Town.
- This route is free and offers a wilder experience, but it’s longer and less maintained than the main path. (see video below)

Tips for the Hike?

Wear sturdy shoes — the steps are old stone and can be slippery, especially in rain like Jeff’s day
Bring water and sun protection (or a rain jacket), because there’s very little shade on the ascent
Start early or later in the afternoon to avoid the midday heat and cruise crowds
Even in rain, the views of the red‑tiled roofs climbing toward the mountains and the bay far below are unforgettable — and totally worth the effort.

Cost & Practical Details:
To access the official fortress path and reach St. John’s Fortress itself, there’s a ticket fee — generally around €15 per person in 2025–26, payable at a small booth near the entrance inside the old town.

If you choose the Ladder route, you can often hike up without paying (though this varies by season and access control).

With over 70 switchbacks on a trail with long history, here are Jeff’s phenomenal views of the Bay of Kotor after climbing ~940 meters on Ladder of Kotor, then back down nearly ~1,400 steps to town:

CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO >> SKIP TO 2:20 AND 3:58 AND 5:35 FOR SOME OF THE BEST VIEWS OF THE BAY OF KOTOR!

Kotor, Montenegro- San Giovani Castle Hike via Ladder of Kotor

Meanwhile, back at our rental balcony, I soaked in the sweeping bay vistas and Jeff’s triumphant (if somewhat soggy) defeat of the mountain.

Sometimes in travel, one person chases heights and views; the other just enjoys them with wine in hand 🍷.

A panoramic view of a tranquil bay surrounded by mountains under a partly cloudy sky, featuring a small harbor and charming coastal town houses with red rooftops. — Balcony views 😍

Where to Eat in Kotor?

1. Galion – Waterfront Fine Dining

Set right on the bay, Galion is a favorite for fresh seafood, elegant plating, and stunning water views.

Perfect for sunset dinners, it’s a place to savor Adriatic flavors while watching boats drift across Kotor Bay. Don’t miss the black squid risotto or fresh grilled fish.

2. Ladovina Restaurant & Bar – Contemporary Bay Dining

A modern favorite along Kotor Bay, Ladovina serves fresh catch seafood, pasta, and charcuterie, all paired with Montenegrin wines or craft beers.

With panoramic bay views, it’s ideal for both lunch and a relaxed evening meal.

A cheese platter featuring various cheeses, olives, dried fruits, and fresh greens, presented on a dark slate board.

A plate of octopus with roasted potatoes, carrots, and vibrant herbs, garnished with basil and cilantro, served in a flavorful sauce.

3. Konoba Scala Santa – Traditional Montenegrin Cuisine

Tucked inside the Old Town, this cozy konoba serves authentic local dishes, from Njeguški pršut to hearty stews. Perfect for a slow, relaxed meal surrounded by Kotor’s historic stone walls.

4. Restoran Cesarica – Classic Seafood in the Old Town

Cesarica is beloved for its fresh catch of the day, Mediterranean flavors, and friendly atmosphere. Ideal for lunch after exploring the streets of Stari Grad, with dishes like grilled octopus and local salads.

5. Platanus – Bay Views & Local Favorites

Located in Dobrota just outside the Old Town, Platanus offers hearty local cuisine and beautiful water views. A great spot for lunch or dinner with classics like black risotto or seafood pasta, away from the busiest tourist crowds.

6. Moments Restaurant – Upscale, Creative Dining

For a more refined experience, Moments blends local ingredients with Mediterranean flair in a stylish setting. Perfect for a special night out, with thoughtful wine pairings and dishes that highlight the best of Montenegro’s culinary heritage.

A Dinner to Remember at Galion

We freshened up for dinner at Galion Restaurant in Kotor, a spot recommended in the Rick Steves guidebook that truly lived up to the hype.

Even with a light rain falling, the sweeping views of the Bay of Kotor made every glance feel like a postcard, making it one of the most memorable dining experiences in Montenegro.

A woman sitting at a table by the water, holding a glass of white wine with a beautiful view of mountains and a calm lake in the background.

A plate featuring grilled shrimp topped with a foamy sauce, served on a bed of asparagus.

A plate featuring a sesame-crusted piece of meat served on a bed of roasted vegetables including zucchini, bell peppers, and onions, garnished with fresh spinach leaves.

The food itself was just as memorable as the scenery. From perfectly grilled fish to fresh, flavorful seafood pasta, each dish showcased the best of Adriatic cuisine with thoughtful preparation and presentation.

The service was friendly, attentive, and genuinely welcoming, making the experience feel special rather than touristy.

If you’re ever exploring the Bay of Kotor, a dinner at Galion is an absolute must. Between the stunning views, incredible food, and relaxed elegance, it’s the perfect way to unwind after a day of sightseeing — even if the weather isn’t perfect.

A man sitting at a waterfront restaurant with a menu, overlooking a marina filled with boats and surrounded by green mountains. — Galion Restaurant views

Where to Stay in Kotor?

For easy access to the Old Town and Bay of Kotor views, choose a rental or hotel within walking distance of the city walls.

Many offer balconies overlooking the bay, modern amenities, and private parking, making them perfect for exploring the town and surrounding coastline.

Our booking.com rental in Kotor was also perfect for our stay— It included a garage, washing machine, premium coffee maker, and wonderful balcony views (even in rainy/foggy conditions) 😍

A cloudy view of mountains shrouded in mist, overlooking a tranquil bay with scattered houses along the shoreline. — Morning views from bed 😍

Link for Apartments Magic Sea View:

Apartments Magic Sea View

http://www.booking.com/Share-2N4Rwr

Balcony views 😍

I must admit—watching a cruise ship do a sharp 180* turn in the middle of the narrow ‘ria’ from your balcony is very satisfying to witness every night.

The next day we headed to ‘Our Lady on the Rocks’ Catholic Church floating on an artificial island in Montenegro— Check out page 2 for details!

Pages: 1 2

Bay of Kotor Travel Guide: Exploring Kotor and Perast, Montenegro

Crossing Into Montenegro: Scenic Drive

Nearby cities (easy by car or bus, 1–4 hours)

Are there options for day trips to/from here? YES